Whitewater's fierce independence makes the difference
Indie skiing ethos preserves character on slopes and in community
Nelson, BC Way bigger than you think, badass and fiercely independent—when it comes to independent ski resorts, here's my hot take: Whitewater Resort takes the lead.
Why? Seeking out new lines in the slackcountry or leveraging any of their four lifts to hike ridge lines is baked into Whitewater’s soul, a resort oozing with characters living outside the norm.
A norm beyond normal means food in their day lodge recognized by the New York Times as chow that takes the cake.
“There are no words to describe Whitewater, you just have to come here,” invites Mountain host Janelle Langford. “It’s a place that will move your soul. It’s never kind of fit into the square pegs, always been a little bit out there.”
Photo:
Doc Pow
Janelle Langford hosts mountain tours at Whitewater, a place she says "you just have to come here" to get it.
Whitewater’s 50 years of independence plays right into the City it calls home, Nelson BC.
It had been a hot minute from the last time I took to Whitewater’s slopes, so spending time with Langford first thing was a smart call.
The resorts’ free mountain host program gives any snow seeker a local’s understanding on navigating this ski and snowboard fun house.
Photo:
Dylan Robinson
Another thing Whitewater is known for: deep powder days.
Head for a 10-min hike up a prepped cat track, and send it on Faceplant, in an area known as “Trash” all within resort boundaries.
If you’ve ever tried the flavour gem of a beer named in its honour by NBC (the Nelson Brewing Co) then you know just how rich this run, Faceplant, truly is.
Making real connections
It's easy to unplug here at Whitewater, given there is no cell service.
Like many of the other 350 people who keep the lifts turning at Whitewater, living outside is the norm in Langford’s DNA, working as a backcountry lodge cook or a chef on the high seas around Haida Gwaii in summers.
“I’m used to disconnecting, in fact it’s a daily practice to not turn it on at all.”
Notice the difference in being outside the norm: with no connection to the phone, people are doing what they do best—communicating face to face with passion for the day and the experiences to be had in this snow mecca.
“Where you notice our independence the most,” says Whitewater Snow School instructor Rosie Wigenberg, "is when you go for lunch."
Photo:
Samm Moore
In addition to its snowy mountains, Whitewater is internationally famous for its creative, independent cuisine.
“The food here is off the charts, something you really realize when you go to another hill and then come back here.”
Wigenberg’s right, days leading up to my Whitewater time, my mouth had been watering knowing that lunch would be legendary.
ski Whitewater for indie vibes
feel at home shredding independent
Pro tip: do like I did, grab a spot on the deck and order up an Ymir Bowl (a crazy good coconut curry that will leave your tastebuds singing) paired up with a Faceplant winter ale.
Photo:
Doc Pow
Treat yourself with Doc Pow's lunch tip: an Ymir Bowl paired with a Nelson Brewing Co. Faceplant winter ale.
Full of tips, Wigenberg suggests, ”park down at Glory Lodge, for the best breakfast and proper meat pies. We have great food everywhere on the mountain, but basecamping out of Glory works to stay out of the main fray while scoring their signature dishes.”
For a taste of what awaits on the Glory side, watch this:
Forever Young: The Story of the Silver Sliders
In a world seemingly more and more “corporatized," time at Whitewater renews faith in a life where “the man” isn’t getting in the way of our fun.
When you go
“We're no longer a mom-and-pop outfit. Being connected through the Powder Highway, it’s brought Whitewater to the world,” says Langford. So know if you are planning on being here on a weekend - you’ll need to be organized.
Skiing, riding and visiting Nelson mid-week through the season is the ticket. The lift lines at Whitewater—even when it’s busy—are nothing that will turn your hair gray, but mid-week you’ll have more of the chance to connect with locals, the community and score more vertical.
Where to stay in Whitewater or Nelson
Photo:
Dylan Robinson
A cozy room at the Hummingbird Lodge.
The Adventure Hotel sits right on the main drag in Nelson, home to a sauna on a spacious deck, the Empire Coffee shop (beauty peanut butter cups) and the Uptown Pizza & Sports Bar (where the locals go).
Hummingbird Lodge (pictured above) is a recent addition that has brought the word “resort” into Whitewater’s title.
Winter camp or summer hike a six to seven hour day to summit Ymir peak (includes a two bedroom private suite that’s rentable). Looking out on top of Glory out onto the Kokanee Glacier and other awe inspiring views of the Selkirk, Monashee, Purcell and Valhalla Mountain ranges.
Winter camping is welcome at Whitewater, a 20-min drive from Nelson, bookable here.
Getting here
7.5h from Vancouver city limits via Crowsnest Highway to Hwy BC-2E
3h drive from Spokane via State Route 20-W
Being a gem of the Powder Highway means you can easily connect Red Mountain and Whitewater over a few days' drive.
Upcoming events
Featured Whitewater event as listed on FestivalSeeker.com & Whitewater website
